Eat baklava sitting down, not from a vacuum pack at the bus station. Copper bazaar is for looking unless you know a maker. Zeugma mosaic museum is the reason to stay a night. Spicy kebap will humble you. Ask for az acili the first time.
A field guide with teeth
What tourists tell each other after the tour bus leaves.
Cities, places, and open topics. Write an entry like you would tell a friend: the scam, the simit, the hammam that was worth it.
Start with a city
All citiesHot topics
All topicsPopular entries
Book a licensed operator the day before, not the guy in the lobby. Weather cancels flights. You get a refund or a second try, not a fight. Wear layers. The valley at 05:30 is cold even in July. If balloons stay on the ground, walk Love Valley at sunrise anyway. That is still the trip.
The meter is not optional. If a driver says the meter is broken, get out. From IST, use the airport taxi desk or a ride app. From Sultanahmet to Taksim at night, agree on nothing except the meter. Keep small bills. If someone 'helps' with your bag at the curb, they will want a fee you did not ask for.
Enter from the south gate if you can. Shoes off on the white. The thermal pools look dirtier than Instagram. Hierapolis ruins above are the better half of the day. Skip the hotel "VIP travertine" add-on. It is the same calcium.
Buy the official ticket. Anyone with a laminated badge in the courtyard is not staff. The building is a mosque now: shoulders covered, shoes off, keep your voice down during prayer. Go early or near closing. Midday is a crush and you will photograph other people's phones.
Start at opening. Hat, water, stone that reflects sun. The Library facade is the photo. The terrace houses cost extra and are worth it if you care about floors. Selcuk town at lunch is cheaper than the site cafes. Kusadasi cruise crowds hit at 11:00.